It’s been a protracted eight years since Greek restaurant Christos closed its location in downtown St. Paul’s Union Depot.
Several other restaurants have come and gone, but the primary outfit that I’ve felt has endurance has arrived. 1881 by Lake Elmo Inn comes from individuals who understand a historic eatery.
Each Lake Elmo Inn and Union Depot opened in 1881, which inspired the name of the St. Paul space. And owners John and Christine Schiltz have been with Lake Elmo Inn because the Nineteen Eighties.
The menu at 1881 is basically a shortened version of the one at Lake Elmo Inn, where wild rice, lake fish, duck and Hereford beef rule.
On a recent visit, I brought two downtown residents who haven’t been to Lake Elmo Inn to check out the menu — and to inform me truthfully in the event that they plan to return.
The space has been transformed right into a dark-wood-clad, comfy-boothed, clubby atmosphere, and it only felt right to start out out with just a few cocktails. From the Hot Honey (a straightforward mixture of gin, lemon and hot honey) to a fall margarita infused with a cranberry/rosemary reduction to an aquavit bloody Mary and a barrel-aged Manhattan, all were excellent.
We began with the Reuben truffles and duck “eggs” a l’orange, which we didn’t realize weren’t actual eggs. Each are mainly stuffed fritters and the tasty Reuben truffles, crammed with corned beef and sauerkraut, were the winners. Perhaps it’s because we ate the Reuben version first, however the duck version — filled with duck, wild rice, vegetables and fontina — were bland by comparison. I feel next time I’ll try a classic shrimp cocktail or the provoleta (grilled provolone cheese served with a tomato relish).
We also ordered the chopped wedge salad, which I used to be enthusiastic about because I assumed it could be easier to share than a standard wedge. The components were all excellent, including a delicious house-made ranch dressing) but served in a deconstructed way, so that everybody could select what was on their very own little salad. While it was novel, I feel I’d prefer the chef to toss my salad.
Certainly one of my guests is a big fan of French onion soup, so we ordered 1881’s version, which is a beautiful, perfectly seasoned version, topped with the requisite giant croutons and melty Swiss.
As for entrees, I ordered a panko-breaded walleye filet, which was advantageous but a bit on the fishy side, which made the shortage of lemon (it was served with a reasonably bland butter-chardonnay sauce) unforgivable. It was served with some fairly ho-hum carrot shavings and buttered potatoes.
My friend’s Hereford beef NY strip fared significantly better. Tender, beefy and well-seasoned, it was a steak we’d come back for.
The chicken Parmesan, served on linguine with a fresh, vivid tomato sauce, was tasty but can’t really beat DeGidio’s version, which is $8 cheaper and a much bigger serving.
Nevertheless, the butternut squash ravioli, bathed in a savory sage brown butter, was a winner and value ordering again.
We were too full for dessert, which is brought out on an old-school dessert tray so you may test it out before you order.
The consensus from my downtown-dwelling friends was that 1881 is a pleasant addition to their walkable dining options, they usually’ll be walking over for drinks and dinner, probably while sitting at the gorgeous bar. There are definitely areas where the restaurant could improve, but overall it’s a pleasant option for neighbors, train travelers and pre-event dining.
Small Bites are first glances — not intended as definitive reviews — of recent or modified restaurants.
1881 by Lake Elmo Inn
Where: 214 E. Fourth St., St. Paul
Contact: 952-698-1881; 1881bylei.com
Prices: Appetizers run from $15-28; sandwiches (lunch only) $14-$20; entrees, $27-$48
Good to know: Lunch menu includes burger; gluten-free and vegetarian options available